Since I now had a coat of Minwax polyurethane one the wood, I searched for a stain that I could apply over the existing varnish. These colour patches are all part of the "price" you pay for a professional to stain your floor. You can even dip the object into stain or pour the stain onto the wood and spread it around. The formula could have improved. You should hire a pro if tackling something this large and complex. Both water-based and oil-based products give off strong fumes as they dry (although oil-based is decidedly worse), so proper ventilation is a must. Minwax Design Series washes, wood effects and waxes offer new options for bare wood and wood that's already stained. It might be smarter to put the money into a fund that leads to doing a complete redo. Between a minute and two minutes (NO MORE, or it’ll blotch) wipe hard. Using a rag also eliminates the bubbles you get when you apply Polyshades with a brush. Turn to Minwax® to add rich color and durable protection to your wood project in a single step. To test this, you can take a cotton ball and soak it in acetone nail polish remover. But the rest is turning out quite well. I've used either the Bombay Mahogany alone, or mixed with the Antique Walnut, on each project. Enter PolyShades. I hope you enjoy it. 3: For best results use a paint strainer (the funnel type) this removes all the unwanted junk in the mix. Finish the surface with PolyShades within two hours of application of the Minwax conditioner. I've tried this and "Howards Restore-a-Finish". That's what Minwax offers...and some of their finishes take 21 days to cure (no furniture, etc x 21 days). I’ve had good luck with polyshades on certain smaller projects. I’ll tape off the side of one and then apply Polyshades to the one that’s not taped. Another vote for not to use it. Here are a few tips if you think you want to give it a try.1: Stirring vs Shaking...Shaking creates air bubbles, if you do shake it, give it a few minutes to settle. Apply the stain on top of the pre-stain. It works by dissolving the exisiting finish [it wouldn't stick, otherwise], and if that finish is old, uneven, or very thick, it just makes a mess. Thanks so much for teaching me the proper techniques! Let dry 4-6 hours. I was wondering if it was possible to put it on with a rag, I think it would be easier to control the amount, and I could do multiple thin coats vs globby ones. Wipe that clean with a cloth and let dry, then apply more coats of the wipe-on poly with the rag to build the finish back up. You have better control as to how much stain you apply and how you distribute it. If I did a big project like kitchen cabinets again I'd bite the bullet and strip all the way to the wood first, stain, and then varnish. Dip a clean, dry paint brush or rag into your stain. All the pieces came out beautifully. With Minwax® wood stains, there’s a color to suit every style. Wouldn’t recommend this to anyone. Yep, done this with this product. Allow a few hours dry time and do coat #2. Most often, they have huge lacks when compared to modern cabinets. And here’s another tip I learned: PolyShades® will always work best on flat surfaces, simply because carvings, spindles, and corners naturally pull excess liquid out of your brush. Use our guide to get familiar with this natural flooring material, Make your kitchen uniquely yours with painted cabinetry. Before staining any softwoods I always add a third step to the beginning of the process by first brushing on Minwax® Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner to reduce any blotchiness. I am able to easily work the surface (a vertical door jamb for example) top to bottom. http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/one-step-stain-and-finishes/minwax-PolyShades Love your wood furniture, but not the color of the finish? Number of drawers in the kitchen? I can see that to an amateur this would be acceptable, and I'm guessing 9 out of 10 of my friends that have no idea about fine woodworking would say, "that looks great!" I wanted to darken my dining room table and a couple of other pieces of oak furniture. A large kitchen table, probably not. I use a sponge with a ScotchBrite backing to gain surface grip for the minwax (I simply do not have the time to remove all doors and work them horizontally). I had to wipe the second coat off completely with a solvent rag because it had gunked up beyond repair. So I re-sanded the entire piece again and started all over. To complete the graining process, wait until the first coat of Minwax ® Gel Stain is completely dry (24-48 hours), then apply a second coat of Gel Stain with a natural bristle brush in the direction of the grain pattern created. It's definetly something you need to spot test [inside the piece, if possible]. i am building a tv console and thought i would use polyshade to save a step of staining then applying a protective finish. Half of the clock was finished vertically with Polyshades and … Gray is hotter than ever, thanks to a hit novel full of risks and dark secrets. In hindsight, of course, I should not have been so stubborn (or is it lazy? Brushing is the best for me. $23.73. It does take longer maybe to get more darkening. Gently repeat the stirring every 10 minutes to assure that the color remains evenly distributed throughout the polyurethane. From furniture to floors, trust Minwax® products that beautify and protect wood. But, I am glad to know about this product because I think ther are others pieces I could use it on and not cry if they didn't come out perfect. I was at SNAP! One of them even brushed multiple coats of the Bombay Mahogany (the darkest shade) on her bath vanity and completely changed the color from oak to a deep rich mahogany.Now, my caveat is this.............I did try using a good quality stain brush with a mix of the Ant. I tested it out on our entry table, I started in the back since I wasn't sure if it was laquered or varnished. Any ideas on how to fix? Using a rag to apply stain, you’ll both apply and then remove any excess stain in one step. Everyone has said something true, and I have experienced it all. I am totally guilty of having stained pieces in the past with a foam brush! This product only differs from Polyshades in that it's a gel, so it's thicker to start with. Decided to use the “one step” approach and am regretting it. It looks great, it covered well and it is even. What have your neighbors done? Then a second coat of the Polyshades … January 16, 2008 By Rhoda 43 Comments. 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